Bear River Mercantile Your Bowron Lake Adventure Specialists

The most common question asked is - "Is it needed?".  Although this is a matter of personal choice, in an area where rifles are not allowed, such as Bowron Lake Provincial Park, a person might feel safer having a canister of bear spray as apposed to nothing at all.   Bear Spray is widely used by outdoor enthusiasts, guide outfitters and various Government workers such as Parks Branch, Forestry Service and Fish & Wildlife employees in both Canada and the U.S, and has proved affective in many bear encounters.·

Bear Spray is not a substitute for caution and common sense.  In the wilderness always utilize good bear safety practices.  Just carry the Bear Spray for that added peace of mind.  

In any kind of attack situation you have to react under pressure.  Attacks can be fast, often leaving you no time to think, only time to react.  We strongly recommend you take time to familiarize yourself with this product's operation.  Please read the label of the particular can you have rented or purchased and familiarize yourself with its capabilities.  

How to Use Bear Spray - If a bear comes around your camp or onto the trail, let it know you are there - make noise, bang pots and pans, blow your whistle.  Usually it will  move quickly away from the area.  If it does not move out of the area, you should have the Bear Spray ready.  Take the safety clip off and watch the bear closely.  Try to position yourself downwind from the bear (so the wind blows away from you and your partners and blows towards the bear).

If a bear is charging, begin spraying when it gets within 40 feet.  It will run into the fog.  If a bear is coming at you along with a strong wind or is just moseying along, you may wish to wait until it is quite close before spraying.  Distances will vary in different wind and encounter conditions.  

Only depress the nozzle for one second.  Depending on the size of the canister you will have several one second bursts, so if the first doesn't work, you have more.  Do not hold the nozzle and empty the whole contents in one shot.  A one second burst to the face of the attacker can: 

    Dilate the capillaries of the bears' eyes causing temporary blindness,

    nduce choking, coughing, and nausea,

    Cause mucous membranes to swell, temporarily choking the bear.

Always aim for the face since this is where many of the mucous membranes effected by the pepper spray are located and aim slightly lower than you think because of the bellowing effect of the spray.  

The bigger the can, the further it sprays and the higher powered the spray is.  For bears and other large animals, never carry less than the 225g size.  Always keep the Bear Spray handy on your hip and carry it with you where ever you go.  Never pack it away in your fanny pack, or backpack where it is inaccessible in an emergency situation.  Most commercial airlines prohibit the transport of Bear Sprays so it is best to buy or rent it at your destination.   

Bug Repellents

The most effective repellant is diethyl-meta-toluamide, commonly known as DEET.  Citronella repellants do seem to work, but they doesn't last very long and overall aren't nearly as effective as DEET.  As far as citronella candles, when used outside they are not very affective because the smoke just drifts away.  They can be somewhat effective when used in your tent, but do not leave them unattended and do not burn them for very long in enclosed areas.  The same goes for Mosquito coils. 

You don't need to slather yourself with 100% DEET repellant, which in fact can melt synthetics, and should never be used around children.  Several bug repellents use a safer percentage of DEET which will deter all but the most determined mosquitoes.  We generally recommend 30 percent DEET or less and I prefer to put it on my hat brim, collar and cuffs as apposed to my bare skin.  

Time of day - Mosquitoes tend to be more active during the cooler dawn and dusk. They don’t like the hot mid-day sun (cool, cloudy days exempt).  When outdoors, mosquitoes can be avoided by staying away from shaded, humid areas where there is little wind.  Mosquitoes are less likely to bite in open, sunny and breezy areas.

Bug Jackets/ Hats - A bit constrictive but surprisingly comfortable, they can whine, but they can't dine.

Dress Right - Ware long pants & shirts. The more skin you cover, the fewer bites you’ll receive.  Light colored clothes are less attractive to mosquitoes, and loose fitting clothes make it more difficult for the insects to bite.

Wind - There’s nothing like a stiff breeze to keep mosquitoes down.  Even just moving to a windy bluff can restore your sanity on a mosquito-infested camping trip.

Your Skin -

Myths? - There is no scientific evidence that eating garlic, vitamins, onions or any other food will make you repulsive to mosquitoes.  The attractant level of each individual to biting insects is based on a complex interaction of many chemical and visual signals.  Certain foods in certain individuals may effect their individual attractiveness to biting insects, for better or for worse.  If it works for you, or you think it works for you, do it.  

Do Mosquitoes Like You? - The reasons why mosquitoes are attracted to humans are complex.  We know for certain that the carbon dioxide you exhale is an important attractant for all biting insects.  There are other chemicals in your breath and on the surface of the skin (such as the lactic acid produced by muscle movement) that can also attract them.

Beyond this, simple bug-proofing helps.  That includes staying as clean as possible (sweat attracts most flying insects) and avoiding scented deodorants or aftershave.  At night, headlights can draw insects to your face, so flashlights are better.  

Camp Stoves 

Some airlines do not allow camp stoves or fuel cartridges to be carried aboard the aircraft.  To be safe, check with the airlines and learn their policies before leaving home.  If you are allowed to transport them on the aircraft, take either an extremely clean used stove OR a new stove on board (new is safer – especially when it comes to fuel bottles).  Please be warned that if you transport a stove and no fuel, there is no guarantee that you will be able to acquire the proper fuel canisters at your destination.  This is especially true when traveling from a different continent.  Your best option would be to consider purchasing your stove and fuel at your destination (and sell it before heading home), or to rent an outfit. 

How much fuel should I bring? - The amount of fuel required for your trip depends on how you plan on using the stove.  Will you be boiling your water as opposed to filtering it?  Will you be cooking three hot meals a day?  Will you be eating fast one pot dehydrated meals or full course meals with meat, potatoes and veggies.  Once you have worked these points out then you need to know the qualifications of your camp stove.  

Some stove manufactures supply this information with their product.  They will state that it requires "X" amount of fuel - to heat "Y" amount of water to boiling - in "Z" amount of time at full flame.  Once you figure out how much stove use you expect to do each day, you can use this information to guesstimate how much fuel you should carry.  If you do not have this information, then test it out yourself.  Weigh your stove, full with fuel, and time how long it takes to boil "Y" amount of water to boiling.  Then re-weight your stove to find out how much fuel you used.    

As a general rule of thumb, a half pint of liquid fuel per day should be more than adequate for a solo camper and 15 to 20 minutes per meal should provide more than enough stove time for two persons, no matter what you're doing.  Just remember that in the back country where there is no supply store, it is better to bring too much fuel than not enough.

"tent headaches" -  Can be caused by carbon monoxide accumulating inside a tent which has a full cover rain fly.  Carbon monoxide (CO), a clear, odorless gas and a by-product of combustion, is deadly poisonous -- most victims don't even know they're falling prey to it; they just fall asleep and never wake up.

Camp stoves emit CO in large quantities and there are several documented cases of campers who have died from the fumes while trying to cook or warm themselves with a stove inside a tightly sealed tent. You should never use a stove inside an enclosed tent for more reasons then this -- tents are also flammable and have been know to catch fire.  

A careful camper can make judicious use of a stove inside a tents vestibule with a pretty good margin of safety.  For instance, if cooking in the vestibule, always ensure there is plenty of ventilation by opening the doors on both sides of the tent and make sure there is a perceptible draft moving through the tent.  Open the doors at both the bottom and top, so that the gas isn't trapped in the upper part of the tent, and NEVER use a stove or lantern inside a tent as a heating device at night.  

So if, at any time,  you find yourself experiencing a "tent headache" which is caused from lack of oxygen, immediately get outside and air out the tent before re-entering.

Drinking Water

Water filters - A good water filter will eliminate good-sized nasty characters as giardiasis, cryptosporidia and amoebas.  Filter materials can vary from a very fine-pore ceramic element to one made of fiberglass.  For most hiking, canoeing and other outdoor activities in North America, a filter is sufficient.  Some good water filters are the Sweet Water filter, the MSR MiniWorks or the PUR Hiker. They are compact, easy to use, are fairly easy to clean and maintain, and are effective against nasties in the water.

Water Purifiers - Water purifiers go one step further.  In addition to filtering water, a purifier will kill those things that are so tiny that they escape a filter's net.  We're talking mainly about viruses.  Most purifies do so by sending the water through an iodine-laced cartridge.  They're designed primarily for international travel.

Iodine Tablets - In lieu of a filter or purifier, I recommend iodine tablets.  I do not like the straight liquid tincture as it seems to leave more of an aftertaste then the tablets.  Still, either method is effective, easy to use, and safe (iodine must be ingested in MASSIVE quantities before it's poisonous).  

It is best to use the tablets in warm water (20 ºC) and let the treated water stand a minimum of 20 minutes before drinking.  For cold water (5 - 15ºC) increase the waiting time after mixing to 40 minutes.  Follow the manufacturer's directions as to the number of tablets per amount of water.  Pregnant women should not use iodine drops to purify water as it may have an effect on the fetus. 

Boiling -  Boiling is the best way to kill bacteria, viruses and parasites.  A full rolling boil for at least one minute is recommended.  At elevations over 2,000 meters (6,500 feet) you should boil water for at least two minutes to disinfect it.  I usually boil my water for a full 5 minutes to be safe.  To remove the flat taste of boiled water, leave the boiled water in a clean covered container for a few hours or pour the cooled boiled water back and forth from one clean container to another to aerate it a bit. 

Sleeping Bags - Staying Warm at Night 

Sleeping Bag Ratings - Just what in the world does a sleeping bag rating mean? The fact is, nobody really knows, as there seems to be no worldwide standard.  At best, the ratings printed on the labels are a theoretical ideal of what a "typical" person needs from that bag to keep warm at the said temperatures.   But there are so many variables that the ratings really are no more than guesses.

Among the things that can have an effect on a warm nights sleep include whether one is a "cold" or "warm" sleeper; how tired you are; what you've had to eat; the quality of your sleeping pad; whether you're damp or not; what position you sleep in; and even what sort of underwear you might be wearing.  The list goes on.  You can be chilly at 40 degrees in a bag rated to -20, and comfortable at 20 degrees in one rated to 32.

So what to do?  First, try to gain a little self-knowledge.  Are you a warm or cold sleeper?  Men tend to sleep warmer because their higher muscle mass produces heat, but that too is just a rule of thumb.  To ensure that you indeed have a comfortable nights sleep, make sure that you are well fed before bedtime.  Use a Therm-a-Rest or similar insulating pad under your sleeping bag.  Wear a set of light long underwear, gloves, a snug hat, and warm socks.  Do a little light exercise before turning in -- a few jumping jacks for example.  Buy a sleeping bag which is rated 5-10 degrees lower than the temperatures you expect to encounter.  If you think of yourself as a "cold" sleeper, add 5-10 more degrees.  And pack along a fleece bag liner for that added comfort. 

A Wet Sleeping Bag - Put on all your clothes and wrap yourself in a rescue blanket before getting into the bag.  Even though your bag is wet, it will still offer you some insulation value, but its damp interior will pull heat away from you as your body tries to dry it out.  So use the rescue blanket to trap your body heat and keep it near your body. This will keep you a little drier while using the bag for extra insulation.  Best preventative, carry your sleeping bag in a waterproof sack.

Back Packs and River Packs

External-frame packs are basically an open metal frame with a bag attached on the back - the old-style "backpack" you might be familiar with.

Internal-frame packs look like the bag alone.  Their frame is hidden inside, usually in the form of curved metal or carbon fiber wands, called "stays," that support the load.

External-frame packs are better for big loads on good trails.  They tend to keep the weight riding high and stable, well placed over the hips; they're cooler (the frame holds the pack bag away from your body) and they are also more forgiving if you pack incorrectly.  Externals also tend to be a bit cheaper, although that is not always the case.

Internal-frame packs hold the load more closely to your body, helping with balance on rough trails or when mountaineering.  They're better for bushwhacking, and more compact to pack onto an airplane when traveling.  They're also hotter to wear, as the pack sits very close on your back and they are trickier to pack.

Which is best?  For Bowron Lake, I'd lean toward an external-frame for all the reasons I mentioned. They're also easier to handle for someone new to backpacking.  Go into a backpacking store and try on several packs (most stores will have weighted bags on hand to simulate a load).  Walk around with each, and just try to get a feel for it.  Packs are like boots - they fit, or they don't. 

Backpack Comfort - Fit is one issue. You want the straps to cup the front half of your shoulder, then slant up into the pack without touching much of the tops and backs of your shoulders.  You do not want the strap to hang over the top of your shoulder and down your back.  Also check for comfortable spacing between the straps and a good waist band.

How you pack your load can affect comfort.  Make sure that the heavy items are placed low and close to your back with lighter things packed around and above them.

Also what you're wearing can effect comfort.  There can be problems associated with heavy packs when wearing a cotton T-shirt.  The moisture that builds up under the straps -- and stays there -- can irritate your skin causing chafing.  Don’t let sweat build up.  Dress in layers so that you can remove a layer as necessary.  In real warm weather, synthetic materials can provide wicking properties which move sweat away from your skin.  Plus, they dry extremely quickly -- just a lunch break will let them dry out, while a cotton shirt takes hours to dry.

So, check the fit, check the load, and check your shirt.

Keeping a backpack (and all the stuff inside) dry - Buying a waterproof backpack cover is a good idea.  Wrestling with a backpack cover every time you need something can be a real hassle, but worth it.  Lining your pack with a plastic bag can keep your gear drier, but this doesn't help with the pack itself.  The backpack cloth can absorb a LOT of water, and a wet pack could easily weigh three or four pounds more than a dry one, plus lose its shape due to wet-fabric stretch.  So you really do want to keep the pack itself dry, not just the contents.

If you're stuck on the idea of lining your pack as the sole water proofing method, consider using plastic trash compactor bags.  They're tougher than the typical trash bags.  Always carry some replacements as you will probably need them.  When on canoe trips, I usually use plastic garbage bags lining the inside of my pack,  pack my gear in Ziploc bags AND use a pack cover.  You would be surprised how the water gets in during the case of an actual dumping in the lake.

Waterproof River Packs and Dry Sacs are especially wonderful for canoe trips.  They are a heavy poly plastic material with a fold down sealing top.  The River Packs come with shoulder straps so that you can wear them like a pack.  The Dry Sacs are bags without straps, also with a fold down sealing top and come in many different sizes.  These are great for sleeping bags and clothing and other soft type gear but are not usable for pots and pans and sharp gear which can wear a hole through them. We never leave home without them! 

Let me know if you find this Info sheet informative and helpful.  I always look forward to any of your suggestions, ideals and paddling stories.  

Copyright © 1999-2005 Sandra Phillips

For More Information Contact:

Bear River Mercantile, Restauant & Resort
PO Box 251 Wells, B.C. Canada, V0K 2R0
Tel: H496699 Wells YP
FAX: none
Internet: sandy@bowronlake.com

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Last modified: May 26, 2008